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Know Your Gear
An equipment guide for the speed skater
Skating is technical sport. Not surprisingly, skating equipment setup and usage can be quite technical as well. Skaters new to the sport often have many questions for which answers exist, but are passed on from skater to skater. To help new skaters find these answers faster, some key elements of equipment usage are discussed below.
While a little knowledge can go a long way, you should also try to find experienced skaters and ask them questions directly. Most skaters are happy to share their experience and often this is the fastest way to get answers to uncommon questions.
The only difficulty will be sorting through the various opinions. While speed skating has been around for a long time, and is well defined, inline speed skating is relatively new. In many cases there will be widely varying opinions on what is "proper" or what is "right". When trying to sort through multiple opinions, be your own doctor/mechanic. Think about what you are doing and as long as it makes sense go for it! Usually a little experimentation will lead you to the right answer.
Contents:
Skate Parts
The phrase "skates" usually refers to what is strapped to your feet. This is more than just the boot though. There are several components that can all be selected to provide more or less comfort, or more/less speed. The figure below shows the basic parts of an inline skate:
- Boot
- Frame
- Wheels
- Bearings
Generally, recreational "skates" have components which are selected for comfort, maneuverability and even fashion. Speed skates on the other hand are usually setup to favor one thing - speed. Comfort, maneuverability and fashion are usually sacrificed, although many modern speed skates are just as fashionable as their recreational cousins.
Boot - The primary purpose of the boot is to support the ankle. There are two ways to do this; one is by providing a high support around the shins (like ski boots), and the other is make the boot very stiff just around the ankle, thus "gripping" the ankle. The high support approach is used mainly in recreational skates where comfort is more important. High support limits the range of motion in the ankle though, and this in turn limits speed. Speed skates are typically lower cut to allow for a deep ankle bend and maximal leg extension, generating more power and speed. To support the ankle, the area around the ankle is made very stiff with materials like fiber glass and carbon composites. Traditionally this has made speed skate boots uncomfortable and prone to blister creation. However modern speed skate boots are more moldable and generally provide a good fit for comfort.
Many speed skates and even some recreational/performance skates are heat moldable. By heating parts of the boot with an air dryer, a heat gun or by baking in the oven, the thermo-plastic or carbon/fiberglass materials will become pliable. The boot may then be molded to the unique features of the skaters feet. This can be a very valuable feature for achieving a good fit. For some skaters with ankle spurs, flat or asymmetric feet this is a must. . Be careful not to overheat your boots throughout this molding process. The boots should never get to hot to touch at any point in the molding process or you risk melting or compromising the material integrity of your boot
Frame - The frame for inline skates typically hold 4 or 5 wheels. Other setups for 6, 3, 2 and even 1 have been tried, but have not been nearly as successful. Longer frames are generally faster, as they allow for more wheel contact to the road and more power transfer. Longer frames are much more stable at high speed, especially on downhill's! Longer frames are less maneuverable though. Recreational skates typically have shorter frames to make them easier to control, and usually limit the wheel size to 80mm to keep the speed down.
In recent years even recreational skates have started using larger wheel sizes, and even 5 instead of 4 wheel designs. These skate setups fill the gap between purely recreational and purely speed skate designs. These setups are sometimes referred to as fitness or performance skates.
Speed skates will typically have lighter (more expensive frames). Speed skate frames usually allow for a much wider variety of wheel sizes and are designed to allow the frame position on the boot to be adjusted. Most modern frames are designed with a slot where the bolts are attached to the boot, this allows the frame to be moved from side to side and/or front to back to adjust its position.
For higher end frames there are three quality levels:
- Fabricated, the frame is stamped from sheet metal. (cheapest)
- Extruded, the frame is molded from molten metal (more expensive)
- Machined, the frame is cut from a solid block of metal (expensive)
Machined frames are typically stronger, but frame manufacturers seek to create the lightest possible frame by cutting more voids into the block, in doing so some strength may be sacrificed. Snapped frames are not uncommon.
Wheels - Wheels are a critical part of any skate setup. The wheels can have a range of size, hardness (durometer number), rebound or responsiveness and grip. Wheels are usually marked with the size in mm and the durometer index (a number followed by the letter A to identify the wheel hardness ). Different conditions will warrant different kinds of wheels. Recreational skates generally limit the speed with smaller wheels, but use higher grip and softer wheel. This combination makes the skate easier to control and better absorbs vibration, allowing for a more comfortable ride. Speed skate setups typically use harder wheels (less comfortable) which sacrifice some grip for speed (less rolling resistance). Also speed skate setups usually have larger wheel sizes, ranging from 84mm to 110mm. For indoor or good quality outdoor tracks (concrete) wheels of very high hardness are also used since vibration is not an issue, and these surfaces usually offer good grip.
The diagrams below show the compromise made in various wheel factors:
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Rebound is a concept for modeling power loss to rolling resistance. As the wheel rotates, moving over uneven pavement and under bodyweight. The bottom of the wheel will deform slightly under the pressure. As the wheel returns to its normal form, it absorbs some energy but returns the remainder somewhat like a spring. A wheel with good rebound, will sap less energy from the skater, and roll easier/longer under the same effort as a lower rebound wheel. However, a higher rebound wheel usually wears out faster, and usually costs more.
Rebound is typically measured by the amount of spring like energy the wheel returns. This is done by dropping the wheel (say from 1 meter). A high quality race wheel usually will bounce back up to 80% (80 centimeters). A lower quality fitness or recreational wheel will usually bounce back up to 75%. Recreational/Fitness wheels last long and are cheaper, but are not as fast since they require more energy at speed.
Rebound is a quality of the entire wheel, not just the polyurethane around the outside. Different designs for the hub can create stiffness or flexibility. Some wheel makers even use gas filled hubs to reduce weight but still keep some stiffness with good rebound. Most wheel hubs are made from plastic as metal is too stiff, however there are a few metal hub designs out there.
The profile (shape) is also important; a wider flatter wheel has more traction and grip, but also more rolling resistance and won't glide as well. Aggressive skaters prefer smaller flatter wheels for their grip and control, while speed skaters prefer taller narrower wheels because they offer less rolling resistance more responsiveness. The diagram below shows how wheels may be shaped for different styles of skating:
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The diagram above shows (left to right) the various standard wheel profiles; aggressive, recreational, hockey, and speed. In general a recreational wheel will suffice for most kinds of skating, but for best performance, using a profile specific to your skating activity is needed. For example most speed skaters use taller more narrow wheels of at least 84mm diameter. The most popular speed skating wheel sizes at the moment are 90mm and 100mm. In the World Cup circuit 110mm is growing in popularity especially in Europe
Speed skating wheels have a very narrow profile to minimize rolling resistance. This lowers the grip though, some speed skating wheels are specifically made slightly more rounded for indoor use where the turns are much tighter and greater traction is necessary.
Wheels are typically attached to the skate frame by way of bearings, an axle and a spacer. The spacer is necessary to ensure that the bearings are not pressed too tightly together and cause binding (which would seize up the wheel). There are two main styles of bearing and axle setup. One is the standard spacer, where the spacer extends through the bearing, and the bearing actually rests on the spacer. The axle/bolt is usually a bolt with a nut that sits in a slot in the frame. This slot typically has a plastic adaptor that can be set for various degrees of rockering. Advanced versions of standard spacers are threaded and the axle/bolt threads into them to a set distances; avoiding over-tightening.
The second style of bearing and axle setup is the floating spacer. This spacer sits between the bearings inside the wheel and the bearings actually rest on the axle/bolt directly. The axle/bolt threads directly into the skate frame. This setup is easier to maintain as the bearings are easier to remove. With this set-up you need to be very careful with over-tightening. In some cases slightly smaller spacers (off by less than 1mm) can cause over-tightening or pinching. Good quality spacers are critical to avoid any over-tightening issues The axle/bolt can be threaded just enough to prevent over-tightening, but when bolts and frames are mixed and matched, there is no guarantee. The diagram below shows a standard spacer setup on the left and a floating spacer setup on the right:
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| 6mm Axle, threads into nut | 8mm Axle, threads into frame |
When ordering online be sure to order the right kind of axle/spacers for your skate setup. The 6mm axle setups are usually found on older recreational skates.
Bearings - Bearings are crucial for obtaining a smooth high speed skating stride. Bearings come in different sizes and tolerances. Smaller bearings save weight and are sometimes preferred by speed skaters because of this. Some skaters believe smaller bearings are not as durable though. Tolerance is an indication of how precise the machining of the bearing is. In general a higher tolerance bearing will spin smoother. Higher precision means less vibration at high speed. However, the advantage of this additional smoothness remains a topic of great debate.
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Standard "608" |
Micro #1 "688" |
Micro #2 "698" |
The standard sized bearings are common on most recreational skates, and even most speed skate setups. While the micro bearing sizes are used in some speed skate setups they are not common. Mainly because they must be used with wheels that have the same size hub, which can be harder to find and more expensive. Some skaters prefer micro bearings though because of the reduced weight. Approximately 60% of the weight of the bearing is reduced in a micro bearing. Some skaters believe these bearings are less durable though.
It is possible to use micro bearings with a standard wheel, however the adaptor (a plastic spacer) often binds up with the bearing and causes the wheel to jam.
The industry standard scale for tolerances in bearings is called the ABEC scale, a low number indicates bearings machined with less precision. Less precision will introduce more vibrations at high speed, causing a rougher ride and increased wear on the inner bearing surfaces. Most skates come standard with ABEC 5 bearings, and slightly better performing bearings, ABEC 6, ABEC 7 can be purchased. Whether or not a higher ABEC rating actually makes a difference in performance remains an open debate. Most skaters can skate without issue on ABEC 5 bearings.
Elite racers often prefer higher ABEC ratings, or bearings that do not even follow the ABEC scale. A popular choice among racers are Swiss Bearings. Designed specifically for skating they take into account materials selection, side loading and other factors that the ABEC scale does not consider.
Bearings are normally metal, and so are prone to rust. Regular cleaning and oiling/greasing can prevent rust build up and prolong the life of the bearings. Some bearings are made from ceramics and are generally much more expensive. While usually machined to a high tolerance these bearings are still susceptible to wear and tear, especially because of their high tolerances.
Normally bearings are lubricated with a moderately light oil or grease. Oil normally spins faster, but grease once warm will typically spin very well. Grease is better at keeping water and other contaminants away from the bearing surfaces, and some high performance "gels" offer some of the benefits of grease while spinning as freely as oiled wheels.
A common misconception is that the free spin of a wheel is an indicator of its speed quality. While ability to spin freely is important, this is not directly related to the wheel spin in use. When "cold" any oil or grease will naturally be less viscous. When in use during a race for example, the bearing and the lubricant heat up, and provide less resistance. If the oil is too thin it will burn off and the bearings might seize up. If grease is being used it will heat up and become more viscous, and spin more freely. Skating equipment dealers will often use display wheels that have an extra light oil and spin fast just to impress skaters who stop to check out a wheel.
Some racers actually prefer to run their bearings dry during a race. These racers have not had the bearings seize up. In general lubricated bearings will last longer and provide a smoother ride.
A good cheap compromise is to use a moderately light oil from the local hardware store. Regular cleaning and re-oiling will keep the bearings in good shape and the oil isn't very expensive. The 3-in-1 oil sold by Canadian Tire is used among many skaters simply because its cheap and effective. For racing some skaters prefer ultra-light oils such as "Spray & Play", however lighter oils require more frequent attention.
WD-40 can be used to clean and temporarily lubricate the bearing without having to open it up. It will spin out or evaporate quite quickly though, and should not be used as a long term substitute for properly cleaning and oiling.
For rain skating a grease should be used in bearings that are not sealed or rated as waterproof. Some skaters even use bicycle grease! Thicker greases will not wash out in the rain and once rolling, the viscosity will lower and be quite usable. Rain speeds are typically lower then dry speeds so having optimum viscosity is not crucial. Be careful though, some types of chain grease or heavy bicycle grease are effectively permanent and will not be easily removed from your bearings.Recreational vs. Speed
Some examples of recreational, performance/recreational and pure speed skates are shown below:
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Recreational |
Performance |
Speed |
Recreational skate designs usually offer much higher support around the leg, this limits ankle bend and leg extension, thus limiting speed. However, the additional support is usually welcomed by novice skaters. In addition recreational skates typically have a soft boot design with a thick foam lining to promote comfort. The frame is usually fixed in position and not interchangeable with other frames. Maximum wheel size is typically limited to 80mm or less. Some recreational skates also allow for "rockering" of the wheels to increase maneuverability. Slalom and Aggressive skaters often use this kind of skate with particular wheels to achieve the best grip/control for doing tricks.
Higher performance recreational skates are typically constructed of better materials, and offer some speed features, such as a lower cut ankle, longer frames (5 wheel instead of 4), or allow for larger wheel sizes (90mm-100mm). Performance skates are also somewhat stiffer than purely recreational skates to provide support for the ankle. However, they still retain a high comfort level with recreational boot style padding. Many fitness and intermediate skaters choose this kind of setup because its comfort allows for good speed and endurance workouts or marathon races.
Speed skate setups favor a very low cut around the ankle for a deeper ankle bend, offer longer frames (without a heel brake) and typically accommodate a wider variety of frames and wheel sizes. In addition speed skate boots usually allow for a range frame mounting positions. This can be critical in achieving good balance and stability at speed. Pure speed skates have traditionally sacrificed comfort for providing a lighter stiffer boot. However modern speed skate boots are often very moldable, and can be made to easily fit most if not all skaters. Speed skate boots are typically lined with a thin foam layer and leather. Many speed skaters actually skate bare foot!
Should I buy Speed or Recreational Skates ?
Before asking this question, you should ask yourself "what kind of skating do I want to do?". Speed skates maybe super sexy, but if you plan on doing Slalom skating and cone tricks, or grinding rails, then speed skates are not a great choice. Your enjoyment/comfort when skating should be the #1 factor. Buy skates that you will enjoy!
For touring around the city or even in a race once in a while, recreational skates are good choice. They offer great comfort, allowing you to skate "forever" without turning your feet into hamburger. Don't expect to be in the lead pack during a race though. Recreational skates are also an excellent choice for skaters who are just learning to skate. Recreational skates typically come with a heel break which makes it very easy to control the speed. New skaters are often unaware that skates can attain speeds comparable to cyclists, especially on downhill's!.
For a little faster ride, and better race performance, many recreational skate manufacturers now offer performance versions of their skates. While not as high performance as true speed skates, these skates can be a comfortable and economical choice for skaters seeking a little more sped.
For the avid racer though, speed skates are the way to go. They will be at the higher (much higher) end of the price range, but offer the most features for performance. Also speed skates are typically far more customizable. This allows the skater more choice in components to find a setup that works best for them. This can be critical when dealing with issues such as pronation (ankle collapse) caused by the equipment. Lower end skates may have no means to deal with this kind of issue.
Speed skates do not normally come with a heel brake; although aftermarket kits can be purchased quite easily. Speed skate setups usually have much longer frames, and the additional length of a heel brake is usually too cumbersome for clean cross-overs, and stepping in/out of the pack at speed. Most skilled speed skaters learn a variety of other stopping and speed control techniques, the absence of a heel brake is not a drawback, aside from wearing out expensive wheels faster!
Generally buying the best quality skates you can afford ensures that you will get the most comfortable skate possible, higher resale value and the most enjoyment. As a general guide, purchasing skates for less than $200 will almost guarantee problems down the road, snapped buckles, ms-aligned frames, etc.
There is a point of diminishing returns; buying super expensive bearings won't necessarily make you go faster, buying a light boot won't necessarily make you go faster, and buying bigger wheels won't necessarily make you go faster. All of the gains offered by these features can be washed away by poor conditioning or technique. If you haven't fully decided yet that skating is your one true sport; going all out price wise may not be the best approach.
Frame Setup
Mounting
While recreational boots typically have a fixed frame position, higher end boots will usually have multiple mounting points or even "slots" which allow for fine tuning the balance point of the skates. This kind of positioning can be critical to skating efficiently and comfortably. The figure below shows the various mounting styles commonly found on speed boots:
With fixed mounting holes the adjustment that can be made is limited. However, in many cases it is enough since most modern frames have a slot rather than a hole for the mounting bolt. This allows the frame to be adjusted with a lot of control. However, fixed mounting holes still limit the full range of possible motion. Some boot manufacturers get around this by adding more mounting holes.
For greater range of motion though, a slot is usually used. This allows for fine control over the position and also a greater range of possible adjustment. This can be further maximized by using a vertical slot in the boot and and a horizontal slot in the frame (most modern frames are horizontally slotted). With this combination the frame can be moved to the fullest with complete control.
Mount Positioning
The exact position of the front/back mounting points and the distance between them is important for creating good balance and keeping the foot as close to the ground as possible for easier balance and control. The mounting holes are usually placed directly under the ball of the foot and the heel of the foot. The standard distance between front/back mounting holes is 6.5 inches. For a number of years this distance was used on both inline and ice boots and allowed for easy transition from inline to ice skating.
More recently larger wheel sizes have required this spacing to be increased to 7.5 inches (195mm) to allow for the skate to remain at the same height from the ground. This creates a slightly difference balance and can require the skater to adjust their technique somewhat. This makes the boot incompatible with current 6.5 (165mm) inch based ice blades, a 7.5 inch boot is usually only for inline skating.
Some manufactures have addressed the height issue while keeping a 6.5 inch spacing by using a combination of wheel sizes. A common hybrid setup is 3 100mm wheels and an 80mm to 90mm wheel in the second from front position. Another common solution is to use two larger rear wheels two smaller front wheels.
Another way to allow 4x100mm wheels on a 6.5 inch based boot, is to use a special adaptor plate between the boot and frame. While this solution is workable it does add a minor amount of height between the ground and boot. Some skaters prefer to be as close to the ground as possible and this has limited the popularity of this solution.
Most recently Bont (a high end manufacturer) came up with a 3 point mounting design called the S-Frame, and claim that it keeps the foot even closer to the ground. While this may be true, three point boots are completely incompatible with ice blades.
Block Height
In addition to the mounting position and possible styles, there is also a vertical aspect of customization. The distance between the bottom of your skate boot and the frame contributes to the distance between your foot and the ground. This "block height" can be important for skaters who must lean very hard into tight corners (i.e. short track skaters). For such skaters it is possible for the boot to actually touch the ground/ice when leaning at a high angle into a corner. This is called "booting out".
To reduce this, the block height can be increased so that there is more room to lean the boot in corners. For inline skates the block height is typically 6mm, for short track ice skaters, where the lean in corners is greater, the block height is typically 10mm. For inline skating this factor usually won't matter since inline skating never sees the same high angle of lean on corners (at that angle most wheels will start to loose their grip).
With inline skates on a tight indoor track a higher block height may be needed. If the boot has 6mm block height, washers can be added between the boot and frame to add extra height. This may require longer frame bolts though.
Side-to-Side Position
The basic position of the fame should be such that your weight is centered around the mid-point of the boot and even a little further towards the rear of the boot. The diagram below shows how your weight should extend through the boot into the ground:
There should be essentially the same amount of wheel in front of the boot as behind the boot. From side to side, the frame should be centered along your natural center of balance. The diagram below and left shows this lateral balance:
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Notice that the balance line is just inside the tendon of the heel and between the first and second toes. Also, when standing most people's feet actually angle outwards by a few degrees. The balance line above shows this by angling away from the big toe by a few degrees. However, when skating this would be undesirable, as the outward balance would tend to make the skater glide away from their mid-line , and have to expend extra energy resetting to the mid-line after each glide. The figure above and right shows this, the red lines are side-to-side drift, the green line is the mid-line forward direction of travel.
To correct for this side-to-side drifting, most skates are setup so that the frame is "toed in" or positioned such that the angle of the frame from back to front is more towards the inside, to compensate for the natural outside angle of the foot. The picture below left (right side skate) shows the toe in angle of the frame (blue line). The reference lines (green) are the normal front to back lines of the boot.
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Note that in general boots are not cast perfectly and you can not rely on a seam or particular spots on the boot as reference points. The best way to judge the green reference lines is just to hold the skate upside down in your hands and use your hands as the reference lines. When doing that you should clearly see the toe-in angle of the frame. The picture above right shows this (left side skate).
When adjusting your frame setup, you should correct for two major issues. The first issues is the tendency to collapse the ankle, either inwards (pronation) or outwards (supination). You will sense this as the a tendency for your skate to "flop" to the inside or outside when skating. To fix this, simply move your entire frame inwards or outwards to counteract the flop (with out changing the toe in angle).
The second major issue to correct for is side-to-side drifting. If you take a few strides and glide, you will immediately notice drifting if it's happening. The easiest way is to try this is in a parking lot where you can glide along the parking spot lines, if there is drift, you will see yourself drifting away from the lines. To correct for this, change the toe in angle without changing the inside/outside position of the frame.
When making these adjustments you will find that often changes as small as a millimeter are enough to make a noticeable difference. You will also find that it usually takes a few trial and error corrections to achieve a good positioning where your balance is good, and there is no side-to-side drifting. Be patient, the extra effort in setting up your frame will pay off with less fatigue while skating, and smoother glides.
Front to Back Positioning
Normally the skate frame should be centered on boot with about the same amount of wheel in front of the boot as behind the boot. This neutral position is reasonably stable and reasonably good for turning. To improve stability the frame can be moved more forward which forces the weight farther back toward the heal. This increases the stability but makes the skate harder to turn. To make turns quicker, the frame can be moved back farther to move the balance point farther forward. This makes the skate less stable, but easier to turn. Short track skaters will typically move the frame back as far as it will go. For most skaters leaving the frame in a neutral centered position is sufficient.
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Shown above on the left is a frame moved forward for more stability. The frame on the right has been moved back to increase turning ability, but sacrifice stability at high speed.
Axle Tightening
When tightening the wheel axles to the frame, some care should be taken. If the axles are not tightened enough, they can vibrate loose and fall out, causing a wheel jam, or worse, a crash! If the axles are tightened too much, the pressure may cause the bearings and spacer to bind up and the wheel will not spin freely. Standard spacers can help with this, as the spacer is flush with the frame and over-tightening would only press the frame against the spacer, however this may still place pressure on the bearing, depending on the size/tolerances involved.
Sometimes wheels will not turn freely because there is internal binding; the bearings may not be completely or properly seated, the spacer might the wrong size, and rub against the spacer or wheel frame. Because the hub of a skate wheel is usually plastic, its possible for the bearing to deform the plastic and sit an angle. This is actually useful for wedging a bearing out and removing it easily. A wedged bearing also rubs against the spacer and skate frame stopping the wheel from turning freely. If a wheel isn't turning, remove the bearings and reinsert making sure the bearings are fully inserted. It may also help to tap the bearing gently with the handle of a skate tool to make sure the bearing is fully seated.
In general, axles should be tightened very firmly but still allow the wheel to spin freely. If the wheel can only spin freely with the axle moderately tightened, you should use a special paste called "Loctite". You can place some of the paste on the axle threads and when tightened it will help keep the axle from vibrating free.
When using Loctite, be sure to use the blue version and not the red (permanent) version. If you use the permanent version you won't be able to change your wheels! Loctite is available at most hardware or automotive stores such as Canadian Tire.
With floating spacer style wheels, the axle usually threads directly into the frame. For this system, tighten firmly, but ensure the wheel still spins free. For these axles when removing them you should hear a "snap" as they come undone, this is normal.
You can also purchase high performance spacer kits that use an axle that actually threads into the spacer rather than the frame. This ensures that any pressure is placed on the spacer and not on the bearings.
Tools
Skate Tools
For working with your skates usually only a single tool is needed. A good quality "multi-tool" can be used to adjust bolts, remove bearings, and change your frame setup. In some cases a specialized tool may be needed for larger bolts, a special kind of bolt, or when a short standard tool can not reach the bolt.
Most skates use bolts that can fit standard cross shaped (Philips) tools, or Hex (Allen key) style tools. Some manufacturers use a specialized kind of bolt called a Torx bolt, for these kinds of bolts you will need a Torx specific tool. This tool can be purchased online or through a knowledgeable skate equipment seller. The diagrams below show some examples of skate tools:
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Heavy Duty - Great for frame bolts. |
Good general purpose tool, good for removing bearings, bolts and axles. |
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Good general purpose tool - Comfortable grip |
El Cheap'o tool - usable, but not as comfortable or versatile. |
These tools can all be purchased online or through a knowledgeable skate equipment seller. Most cities have local skate shops or people who source specialized equipment. Ask around at your skate club to find out who the local sellers are.
The Torx Tool
Some skates use bolts that use a Torx key system instead of the more well known Allen key system. A tool for these kinds of bolts is show below:
Normal screwdrivers and allen keys will not work with this system. You will need to have a Torx specific skate tool. Some multi-tools may have both Allen and Torx keys.
Hex Ball Point Tool
Some frames (especially ice blade frames) can have bolt positions that are difficult to reach and even require the key tools to be used at an angle. Not only does this make it more difficult to gain proper leverage, but can lead to stripping of the bolt. Removing stripped bolts is possible but not enjoyable! To deal with difficult to reach bolts a "ball point" key tool can be used:
Ball point key tools can be used at an angle without loosing any grip/leverage in the bolt head. This makes them ideal for dealing with bolts which are difficult to reach.
Removing Bearings
Cleaning and oiling your bearings regularly will prolong the life of your bearings and help them to spin as fast and freely as possible. Before cleaning and oiling though, you will need to remove the bearings from your skate wheels. Provided below are some videos that demonstrate how to use your multi-tool to quickly and easily remove your bearings.
For standard bearings you should push out the spacer with the "thin" part of your skate tool. If you don't have skate tool with a spacer remover, then you can use a flat head screw driver to push on the edge of the spacer. This is not recommended though because it can easily gouge the metal of the spacer or worse you can poke your other hand.
For floating spacers you can use the key part of the tool just inside the bearing to wedge it out of the wheel.
Do not try to "wedge" out a standard spacer, there is no way this can work! The spacer extends all the way through so you can not place pressure on the bearing. All it will do is wreck the spacer. For standard spacers use a multi-tool that has a neck that is just as wide as the spacer, you can then just push out the spacer and bearing (other side). The picture below shows how you can use the thin part of a skate tool handle to push out a spacer in a hand friend way.
Boot Molding
Most modern speed skate boots, and even higher performance recreational/fitness skates are heat moldable. By applying general heat (baking in an oven) or specific heat (heat gun) to a problem area, the boot shape can be molded exactly to the skaters feet. This can be especially useful for eliminating pain around bone spurs or chronic blister areas.
Before molding your boots, you should consult the manufacture or check the instructions that came with the skates. Ensure that your skates really are moldable. Usually moldable skates will be clearly described as such. They will be called "heat moldable", "made from thermoplastic" or "use super moldable technology". Also take care not to over heat some parts of the skate such as Velcro fasteners, since they may melt!
For reshaping the entire boot, an oven heated to 85C or 185F can be used to heat the boot for 20-30 minutes. Time may vary for different brands of boots, consult your manufacturer to be sure. Be careful not use high temperatures as this may damage the boot. Before baking, remove all bolts, fasteners, waxed laces and the frames.
Once heated attach the frames (without wheels) again, being careful of metal eyelets as they will be hot! Tighten the frame bolts moderately and lace up the boots tightly and then stand in your normal skating position. Be careful not to put your feet in when the boot is still at its hottest, burt feet are not the goal! Do not sit too deeply though as this may limit your final range of motion. You will need to stay still while they cool, usually 5-10 minutes. Do not stand in boots without frame as this may warp the final position and shape of the boot.
You may heat mold your boots as many times as you wish, however the synthetic rubber insole will shrink slightly when heated. Be prepared to remove it first, or purchase new insoles after a few reheating's.
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A Ball and Ring Stretcher - can be used for problem spots. |
If a particular area is problematic you can use the hard plastic end of a screwdriver or similar tool to punch out (form the inside) an indentation that you foot can fit into. This is usually quite effort intensive as you will have to push out the problem spot and/or shape it until the boot cools. There is a tool called a "Ball and Ring Stretcher", which you can get from some skate equipment suppliers or shoe making/repair stores, that works like vice grips, but has a ring on one side and ball on the other instead of grip pads.
This tool can be used with the ring on the outside and the ball on the inside to punch out an indent and then be set in place. This tool is excellent for problem areas, but is hard to find. When using this tool, also use a towel between the ring and boot, otherwise the ring will leave a mark on the boot
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Using the head of screwdriver you can reshape a problem spot. |
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For a quick fix, or to work on a very specific area you may use a heat gun. Care must be taken though as a heat gun can actually burn the material (both inside and outside) of a skate boot. Try using the low setting first. Wave the heat gun in small circles around the problem area, on both the inside and outside. Focus 60% of your time on the outside and 40% of your time on the inside. This will heat up the boot material within a few minutes without scorching the material. Never hold the heat gun in one spot, this will scorch the material!
Keep the heat gun clear of softer parts like Velcro, they can be easily melted!
Once heated you may use a punch out tool or the plastic end of screwdriver to create an indentation from the inside as needed.
The ultimate option for molding is to have a custom cast made of your feet, and have the boot manufacturer build custom boots around your casts. This method will produce boots that are shaped specifically for your feet and provide the best possible fit. However this option is very expensive, usually well over $1000. Given that many modern boots use thermoplastic designs that are highly moldable when heated, it is very likely that a good quality fit can be attained from a stock boot with heat molding.
Knowledge is Speed
Knowing your equipment isn't just a matter of being technically savvy; a good knowledge of how to adjust your gear, will ensure you have every advantage you can when seeking our your personal best or a better finishing position. Know your gear and be fast!
Contributors
Special thanks to the skaters who helped with this tutorial:
- Mike Garvin - Author - www.inlineottawa.com
- Stephen Fisher - Editing - Homepage TISC
- Dan Thompson - Reviewer - www.inlineottawa.com
- Erik Rosengrenerik - Reviewer - www.speedskaters.se
- Dan Doutrisac - Editing - www.inlineottawa.com
